With his kind permission, I print here Ted Crawford's report of his recent holiday to Iran. You will find Ted on the Revolutionary History stall selling his journal enthusiastically and cracking jokes about this or that stupid thing Trot groups have been up to of late. He is a very funny guy, as can be seen by the report...
Report and impressions on a visit to Iran 3-17 October 2008, contrasted with Syria and Turkey, countries with Islamic traditions, but claiming to be secular.
I will try to make clear in this report what I was told and what I saw or heard myself. Unless otherwise stated what we were told was information given by our guides. We flew south to Shiraz and stayed there, travelling by coach to Yazd, Ispahan and back to Tehran, staying in all these places, seeing marvellous architectural sights there and places in between. I will say nothing about these.
The Turks are a bit better off than the Iranians and both a lot better off on average than the Syrians, the CIA website says the Syrians have a GDP [at PPPs] of $4,700 (2007 est.) per capita and the Turks $12,000 (2007 est.) but I would guess the Gini coefficient at 42 is much more unequal than for the Syrians, for which the CIA makes no estimate. From the same source the Iranians have a GDP per capita of $10,600 (2007 est.), a very similar Gini coefficient to the Turks of 43, [1] a net fertility rate of 1.71 and a life expectancy at birth for males of 69, and for females of 72. The net fertility rate in Iran was confirmed by the observation that all the families we saw in the street or parks were one or two children, not five or six. On that we were told that during and just after the Iran-Iraq war there was a massive increase in the birth rate encouraged by the state (net fertility of 5 or 6) but then when they saw how the population was exploding they got cold feet and, in probably the most successful piece of population control in the world outside a far more brutal China, managed to cut the NFR by half in five years from which it has since declined further a good deal. Every small village apparently has a health/birth control clinic. We were told that, though the Ayatollahs do not particularly like abortion, it is not illegal and is practised with limitations on dates etc though I do not know any statistics about it, or indeed even if they are collected.[2] Since one of the most important aspects, if not the most important, of a woman’s liberation is the control of her fertility this is a considerable plus for human rights in Iran. From the same CIA statistics the women in Saudi (friend of the “West”) seem to be baby making machines. But in Iran as a result of the massive birth rate in the 1980s and early 1990s there is a great bulge of 15-25 year olds with consequent social problems such as unemployment.
Next religion. What was noticeable for a tourist group like ourselves was how much less intrusive the muezzin was in Iran than in Syria, Turkey or Libya where one was frequently woken up by the call to prayers. It is true that the Shias only have 3 calls and the Sunnis 5 but even so this surprised me a good deal. It seemed far less loud even though we were in a hotel just next to a mosque in Ispahan. Secondly there were far fewer new mosques being built though one of our guides complained bitterly that there were too many, the money for which could have been spent on hospitals or schools. (A lot of money was being spent on the restoration of the beautiful old mosques but I hope that an Iranian socialist or communist government would do no less.) Of course all the new mosques in Syria, Turkey, Britain or anywhere else are probably financed by the Saudis, Sunni Wahabis, the “Wee Frees” of the Islamic world. (The only problem is that they are not just sitting on the Isle of Skye throwing stones at those who dare to go fishing on Sunday but are sitting on most of the world’s oil supply and able to indulge their little hobbies internationally.) We were told that people as a whole were rather less religious than in the time of the Shah. There is a joke that Turkey is a religious country ruled by atheists while Iran is an atheist country ruled by the religious. Atheists is a bit strong, in both cases it is rather more nominal religious affiliation in the best non-practising Anglican tradition and in Iran anyway this is probably truer of the upper and upper middle classes.
Related to this was the position of women. Everyone, by law had to be “covered” but the niquab that conceals all but the eyes was hardly ever seen and, in every case where we saw it, the women turned out to be Saudi or Gulf states’ tourists. I know because they spoke and were spoken to by some of the women in our group and the first enquiry was where each came from. You see it more commonly in Ealing or near Hyde Park than you do in Iran. A member of our party who had been in Mashad, a very “holy” town in 2000 said the niqab was far more common there but many of those may have been Shia pilgrims from the Gulf too. Of course this “covering” of the head law intensely annoyed many of the strong women in our group – including Mary. The majority of Iranian women were also covered by the chador, the shapeless black garment which conceals both class differences in dress and age related differences in figure though a few girls in Tehran seemed to be wearing VERY tight jeans designed to distract the average male. But with a change in the law there would be a swift change so that I would guess fewer girls would then “cover” themselves than in Turkey. As we know from English history, the “rule of the saints” is never popular, above all when they ban the simple pleasures of bull-baiting and maypole dancing, so when prohibitions are removed there is an immediate and considerable reaction. But we were told that in the privacy of their homes people wore what they liked and the better off people in North Teheran did so while drinking prohibited alcohol, all available when ordered by phone from their friendly bootlegger. The prices, we were told, were much the same as in England but most of the money, instead of going to the government, went to the smuggler.[3] (We wretched tourists were absolutely “dry”.) Everybody was most friendly, the women were frequently approached and spoken to by Iranian women including schoolgirls. Most western tourists were Germans, followed by French with the British a minority and very few Americans. The sanctions were a bit of a joke. We could not use western credit cards normally but for big items, such as when we bought a small carpet, our cards were accepted and our details were phoned through to their office in the UAE so we apparently bought our carpet there.[4]
What about free speech and censorship? Foreign newspapers were emphatically not available and we were told local ones are frequently closed down if they overstep the line though our guides were far, far more outspoken than in Syria, let alone Libya where Mary had gone in 2007. Our Turkish guide was outspoken but not as “agin the government” as were the Iranians since he and his government were of course both secularist on the political issue of the day - and he put away the raki like anything. Apparently you can say what you like in Iran among your friends, the problem is publishing it. Indeed an Iranian girl I met on the plane to London had a special phrase for it – “verbal therapy” - people were allowed to moan and it was a useful safety valve as the phrase recognises. (Come to think of it this has similarities, even if the censorship is not so brutal, with what happens in Britain and the USA.) Our guide told us that a journalist in Shiraz asked him what improvements he would like to see in the tourist industry. He asked her to turn off the recording machine and then said that if he told her and her paper published it they would be closed down and he might lose his tourist licence. So she did not pursue that line of inquiry. The system, if you like, worked. As far as the mass media was concerned we had access in the hotels to a great many TV stations, BBC World News, CNN, Aljazeera and a surprisingly good Iranian government news station in English – see http://www.presstv.ir/programs/. We were told private homes were not supposed to have dishes but many did. There was also the official government English language daily newspaper, The Teheran Times. Far more readable than the Syrian government equivalent, or the Indonesian one said my Australian banker friend, it had, of course, a good many excruciatingly boring statements by government ministers and announcement of obscure delegations and treaties about trade or cultural links with a number of small countries. Yet there were also reprints from quality western papers, the Herald Tribune, the Sunday Times and so on - in all of which our little company was very interested as world markets reeled, they became rather poorer and worried about the prospects of any of their children now managing a hedge fund. Israel was never mentioned, only the “Zionists” but Al-Qa’ida was always coupled with the word “terrorist”, as in “American forces have killed a well known Al-Qa’ida terrorist leader”. This appellation was also applied to the group at Tripoli in the Lebanon – horrible Salafists I think. A number of statements by the Iranian government, whether made in good faith or not, denounced terrorism of all kinds but, as far as I could see, particularly the Sunni variety. I suspect that is their genuine position. (They would not regard Hezbollah as terrorist but as a popular-based Resistance movement, which indeed is what it seems to me.) On the web the Marxist Internet Archive www.marxists.org (which has a Farsi section) is blocked but not ETOL http://www.marxists.org/history/etol/index.htm which is entirely in English.
A small item I saw may have had significance which was that the Assyrian exile movement (of Christians) which had been based in the USA shifted its HQ to Iran in October 2008. Perhaps they know something we do not. We were told that the names of all those executed were reported in the press, presumably the publicity was thought to be a deterrent, the common criminals being hanged while the politicals were shot. Our guides said that no political ones had taken place for some years but that in the past, just after the war, pages and pages of the politicals’ names were listed in the daily papers which our guides obviously found disgusting even if they were somewhat lacking in sympathy for the criminals. They said the sort of people hanged recently at 4 in the morning in a stadium on a crane were generally gangs, guilty of something like raping 200 women and killing 20 of them though I suspect that was a bit of an exaggeration. There were beggars in the streets, quite often including women, which never happened in Syria let alone Libya, while they were there in the evening and sometimes quite young. Were they drug addicts?[5] But that must mean that they felt physically secure enough to beg at night which is a big point in the Iranians favour. Or was this prostitution? [6] I failed to ask the guides.
Politically our guides were certainly not lefties but seemed to be supporters of Mossadeq rather than the Shah, that is, nationalist, though not extreme, keen on the westernisation and modernisation of their country but through parliamentary democratic means and wary of the western powers. The latter very understandably so. They seemed to think Ahmo did not really have power but that rested almost wholly with the Ayatollahs and they seemed to think things had always been just as bad for the last 20 years, sometimes a bit better, sometimes a bit worse. There was no sense of the feeling that “the levels of state chaos and arbitrary repression have recently risen dramatically, as the ruling caste and government fragment and the ultras take uncontrolled actions on their own, while there is now a lot of fear among reformist intellectuals”, all of which an American connected to the neo-cons has suggested to me is happening. It may be so but I got no sense of it. If they were trying to present some Potemkin village of dancing happy workers and peasants for our delectation (which I do not believe for a moment) they were doing a very bad job of it.
On politics we were told that only about 25% of the population voted, faced as they were by a choice between a very conservative religious party, a v. v conservative religious party and a v. v. v. conservative religious party. Rather like us in the USA and Britain when faced with the choice between a pro-business party and a very pro-business party. The greater the evils in the choice, the less the differences, the fewer people are interested in participating. The candidates are all vetted by the clerically appointed Council of Experts and the clergy know where all the bodies are buried. Candidates are not removed for the political opinions but because it is announced that they are discovered to have taken bribes, behaved in sexually inappropriate ways etc, etc. All true but this is equally true of those who are allowed through of course, but the numbers of the more moderate, reformist members are severely whittled down. And, naturally, the reforming clerical faction(s) has some difficult in finding people who are clean as clean.
Travelling about the country by coach the roads were often very new and good and the sign posts, as in Syria, had both the names and distances in Latin characters as well as Arabic ones and frequently driving directions in English such as “Drive slowly”. Crossing the road in the towns was a most terrifying experience and highly dangerous for a foreigner. The cars themselves were often quite old – more so than the UK anyway, which is what you would expect, while one of our number who had been to Iran in 2000 on another tour said that there were far more cars on the road than at that time. I noticed a number of times pup tents or sleeping bags on the side of the road and enquired of our guide who laughed and said that though you could not go to your hotel with your girl friend you could go and camp with her. I asked if the police had not stopped that kind of thing to which he replied that the morality police had been abolished 10 years ago and that “‘They’ had given up on the young”. Now although I am sure that this happens (youth will always find a way) I do not know to what extent while, to own a tent for recreation and fornication, would mean that you were well above the economic Plimsoll line in Iran I would have thought. Was this confined to a small minority of those in north Teheran? I assume the girl would have to deceive her father in any case. But that seems inconceivable in Syria and, if happening in Turkey, not nearly so blatant. Last year I wrote about Turkey that “whether lay or religious it is, and certainly was, a socially very conservative place though we were told that a bit of a sexual revolution had taken place from the late 1980s and 1990s even if I do not expect this was of the same depth and intensity as that in the UK from about 1964 when it suddenly seemed that all one’s Christmases had come at once. In Turkey it was probably both geographically confined to the western areas and rather more of the occasional mutual furtive grope with one’s contemporaries of the same social class that had never been on offer before. We saw secondary school kids occasionally holding hands while Mary, with the eagle eye of the retired deputy head, easily spotted in Antalya the tarty one who had hoisted up her school uniform skirts to show maximum leg and was always surrounded by about five boys. It was, she said, all very familiar. Syria was a much, much more socially conservative place..” I think in Iran I once saw in a park a couple having a snog, though she had her hijab on.
Our guides did mention the Shiite practice of muta’a or temporary marriage in which couples are allowed to have sex and share responsibilities for a stated period of time. The basis for this has always been recognition of sexual need and does not imply payment of dowries or sharing of common property. (Sunnis ban Muta’a.) They said that some Ayatollahs had recommended this to deal with the problems of prostitution and our guides clearly thought of it as an amazing bit of mediaeval backwardness and bit of a joke. However it seems that the kids in their pup tents were just the youth having a shag, no religious nonsense at all. I was not indiscreet enough to ask what their attitude was to their own daughters! My daughter in Jordan says there is a boom there among medical practitioners repairing hymens for a healthy fee, the same appears to be true in the Lebanon and I would not imagine it is much different in Iran.
Both our guides were charming, immensely educated, lovely people, clearly very privileged and competent upper class professionals. I would guess that they came from families who had been unhappy with the Shah but had done nothing about it save grumble as they had a lot to lose. But our male lecturer was also a patriotic Iranian. When I enquired it turned out that in the Iraq-Iran war, when he had finished his degree (MSc I think) in London, he had gone straight back to Iran knowing that he would be called up for two years. There they shoved him into the heavy artillery, (175mm) which even if not as dangerous as the infantry was not without its perils. But there you are, patriotic and volunteering for the front, just like Bush and Cheney (dream on). He also said that in that war they had more volunteers than rifles with, I think, a hint of pride. On nuclear weapons I suspect our guides were not totally frank. When asked they said they genuinely did not know but I reckon the same could be said for some other statements they had made but of which they merely had a very good idea. If pressed I am sure they would have said that Iran lived in a very dangerous neighbourhood with nuclear-armed Pakistan to their east, an unstable largely Sunni state which had been handing out nuclear technology to other countries like a child molester hands sweets to kiddies, while on the west Israel threatened first use against a non-nuclear states like theirs – not to speak of US imperialism. What is more the USA had been far kinder to North Korea, which had these ghastly weapons than to Iran which had not. But the two sentences above are only my personal opinion but I believe they were patriotic Iranians without being jingoistic about it. We did see something of a nuclear installation surrounded by AA batteries – the latter looked a bit old fashioned to me - some way north of Ispahan off the main road going north to Teheran. There were piles of rock and earth which I took to be the spoil from digging out underground caverns. But for all I know it may all have been an elaborate hoax.
And our guide mentioned Israel when he told us to take no notice but that their real enemy was the Wahabi Saudi state which regarded them as idolaters, heretics and renegades and he implied that all Iranians knew this. (Our guide in Syria in 2005 never allowed the word Israel to pass his lips, only “Zionists.”) We saw minorities, went to a Zoroastrian fire temple, saw Armenian churches and passed synagogues though the Jewish and Christian minorities are declining because of emigration. There is certainly a real sense of Iranian nationhood, which does not exist in Pakistan, Iraq or Syria, founded on their poetry and we saw a moving scene at the tomb of Hafiz where young boys and girls had come to recite his poems. When I quoted in English the lines:-
“How many vows of repentance are undone
By the smile of wine and the tresses of a girl
Like the vows of Hafiz.”
Our guide immediately quoted them back in Farsi. And there are hundreds of poems and an immense corpus of his work. And because apparently Hafiz said he had seen God in a fire temple and mentioned Jesus both claim him as really one of theirs though in fact he was a Sufi mystic believing that “There are many ways up the mountain”. (I am told that even Iranian rappers sometimes do a bit of Hafiz – and I was told in the UK there is a flourishing Heavy Metal scene, not that the last makes me very interested.) And on the tomb of Cyrus someone had left a bunch of gladioli, not an Islamic sentiment but certainly a national one. There were other charming cultural cum social-political things. Just next to the finest bridge in Ispahan is the tomb, completed it is true a year or two before the revolution, which contains the bodies of two Jewish Americans, a great scholar and his wife, who were most learned about a whole number of Iran’s traditions and history which was put there with the permission of the mayor. The tomb is in pristine condition and thus I deduce there is this welcoming attitude to those from other cultures who have contributed to Iranian knowledge of their culture(s). They have the great self-confidence of the Chinese I think.
There were clearly considerable variations in wealth and income but even the CIA says that this is much the same as Turkey. I cannot say that we saw much of poor areas but our guides complained of universal corruption and the attitudes that existed. When I asked the lecturer what did the Ayatollahs’ children do, did they follow their fathers, he replied that they were shopping till they were dropping in the malls of Vancouver from which I deduced that their fathers were not capable of passing on their values and beliefs in face of all the shallowest and most superficial aspects of western society. One can almost feel sorry for the clerics if that is the case. Our mentors had an entertaining story from a few years back, all the details of which they said had been in the press, of a extremely pious high official who at the same time was having it off with his secretary. Four men in his office, also deeply pious and who had beards - the latter point very important - thought this was absolutely shocking and decided to expose the bounder. According to Sharia law before adultery can be proved it must be seen in the act itself by four men with beards. So they broke in to find him and the lady making the Beast with Two Backs. Alas, they were immediately sacked for violating his privacy and never employed again by the government while he continued on his way, having a certain “influence” in high quarters. So much for Sharia. This sort of thing leads to enormous cynicism and so it must be asked what are the prospects for the regime.
I would argue that given the idiotic American pressure which consolidates the position of the Ayatollahs and given an enormous unemployment rate of 20% or so together with a vast patronage machine of religious charities controlled by the clergy plus the Pasdaran militia, all regular volunteers, all of which helps the poorest, the whole lot fuelled and paid for by oil revenues, (85% of exports) the regime could continue for quite some time. With such a huge unemployment rate the working class, the only political force which could shake things a bit, is pretty passive except for isolated incidents. (I never got the chance of asking about the busmen’s strikes in Teheran last Christmas and their brutal suppression.) Among the population as a whole there must surely be not merely cynicism but a feeling that they have had it with politics. The slaughter, both in the war, the horrible purge of oppositionists in the 80s and early nineties plus their massive emigration must have knocked the stuffing out of them for a bit. What would change things is greater economic growth and rising employment while the quickest way for the West to achieve this would be to lift all sanctions and give cast-iron guarantees that there would be no attack on Iran as long as they did not get nuclear weapons. But do either the Americans or the Ayatollahs want a deal? Will either, even assuming a liberal future American President, want an active Iranian working class? But can sanctions be maintained in a bad recession?
For the details of modern Iranian history I have been using the relevant chapters of The Persians (2007) by Gene R. Garthwaite, a Prof at Dartmouth College in the States. Seems quite good but you have to read between the lines a bit to grasp the class nature of the situation in the great crises of 1953 and 1979-83 while for those of us who believe that consciousness arises from being rather than the other way round he seems to over emphasise the ideological springs of behaviour.
Since coming back to the UK I have heard that this Iranian cultural link to Germany, many archaeologists and linguists were there in the 19th and early 20th century, as well as the relatively larger number of tourists today, was continued in the latter half of the last century as the Russians sub-contracted the Stalinist movement in Iran for the East Germans to manage so that there is a lot of material about the Tudeh in the Stasi archives.
Ted Crawford
(4,859 words)
The following points in these notes were suggested by a left winger (Y.M.) in exile in the UK.
[1] Iran’s Gini coefficient was 44 according to UN in Jan 2008 , and is probably higher now.
[2] Abortion. This is not available to working class women, shanty town dwellers, women in rural areas, mainly because it is only available in private clinics, or unofficial ‘surgeries’
[3] ‘Alcohol prices were much the same as in England but most of the money, instead of going to the government, went to the smuggler.’ The smugglers are associated with the government committees … otherwise it would be impossible to bring alcohol into the country.
[4] Sanctions - it is true that for tourist credit cards and rich Iranians transferring money abroad, Dubai is used to avoid sanctions. However for most Iranians sanctions are not a joke. Major firms from car manufacturers to petrochemical companies are making workers redundant because they can’t buy equipment necessary for production. There is a shortage of some medicines and surgical equipment. Almost all Iranian banks are in the new list of sanctions, at a time of economic uncertainty many people are concerned that their wages will be paid into bank accounts blacklisted by new sanctions
[5] The beggars might not be drug addicts but Iran has a major problem with drug addiction ‘ – A report by the United Nations has found that Iran has the highest drug addiction rate in the world, the Washington Post reported on the 24th Sept 2008’
[6] Prostitution- Illegal however very common. In 2003 when the government briefly considered legal brothels, it estimated that about 300,000 prostitutes worked on the streets of the capital, that figure is much higher now. To this one should add the number of Iranian prostitutes ‘exported’ to the Gulf states. [Ted adds, this would be 1 out of 30-40 women in Iran in the relevant age group and 1 out of 10 women in Teheran were prostitutes which seems very high.]
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